From History to the Present of Tea: The Story of Labor, Railways, and Culture

Sangram Datta
Tea—a beverage that has become an inseparable part of our daily lives. Whether at breakfast, during evening chats, while welcoming guests, or as a relief after a tiring day of work—holding a cup of tea evokes a special feeling. But the history of tea is not a simple one. Intertwined within it are legends of emperors, British trade, espionage, railways, the struggles of laborers, and its lasting imprint on literature and culture.

The Ancient History of Tea: From Legend to Global Conquest
The discovery of tea is wrapped in folklore. The most popular tale dates back to 2737 BCE. The Chinese emperor Shen Nong was resting when a few leaves, blown by the wind, fell into his pot of boiling water. The water changed color, and upon drinking it, the emperor felt an extraordinary freshness. From there, the journey of tea began.
For centuries, China remained the sole producer and consumer of tea. But by 1650, when tea began to be commercially cultivated, the British became its biggest buyers. Tea had to be paid for in gold and silver, which placed a huge strain on the British economy. To offset this, they began exporting opium to China—leading to the infamous Opium Wars.

British Espionage and the Birth of Tea Cultivation in India
The British were desperate to unlock the secrets of tea. They sent Scottish botanist Robert Fortune to China. Disguised in Chinese attire, Fortune studied tea cultivation techniques, collected seeds, and even recruited workers. Through his efforts, tea seeds first arrived in India—marking the beginning of a new chapter in tea cultivation.
Initially, experimental plantations began in Assam and Sylhet. In 1834, Fischer, the superintendent of Cachar, discussed the prospects of tea cultivation. It took nearly 20 years of trials before the idea took firm root. Eventually, under British initiatives, vast tea plantations flourished in Sylhet.

The Touch of Railways: Awakening of the Tea Gardens
Once plantations were established, the biggest challenge was transportation. Carrying tea leaves from the hilly regions to port cities was difficult. The opening of the Akhaura–Sylhet railway line in 1895 solved this problem. Faster transport boosted exports and encouraged the expansion of new plantations.

The railway did more than just aid the tea industry. It created jobs, fueled regional economic growth, and promoted tourism. The natural beauty of Sylhet’s green tea gardens became more accessible, drawing visitors from far and wide.

Tea Companies, Laborers, and Cultural Fusion
During the British era, workers were brought from various parts of India—Bihar, Orissa, Madras, Nagpur, Santhal Parganas, Madhya Pradesh, and Uttar Pradesh. These workers, commonly referred to as coolies, cleared forests and carved hills to establish vast tea gardens.

Through their labor, numerous tea companies emerged to manage production, operations, and exports. But their contribution went beyond economics. Their traditions, diets, and festivals gradually mingled with local culture—creating a unique social and cultural fusion in the Sylhet region.

Tea Tokens: Symbols of Identity and Existence
Most tea laborers were illiterate. To manage their wages and attendance, the British introduced the “tea token” system. Each worker was given a small metal disc inscribed with a number—their only identity. Wages, attendance, and daily tasks were recorded against this number.
The tea token was not just a piece of metal; it symbolized a rigid hierarchy and discipline within the plantations. Though long abolished, many elderly workers still preserve these tokens as relics—reminders of their struggles and resilience.

The Lives of Tea Workers: Past and Present
Laborers remain the driving force of the tea industry, yet their lives continue to lag behind in development. Education, healthcare, women’s rights, and maternal safety remain inadequate.

Low wages make survival itself a struggle. Malnutrition, child marriage, violence, and poverty are still common realities in tea estate communities. Researchers emphasize that alongside the industry’s growth, equal importance must be given to improving laborers’ rights and living standards.

Tea and Advertising: Marketing on the Canvas of Memory
Today, tea is more than just a beverage; in advertisements, it has become a symbol of social connection. Brands like Tata Tea and Red Label have used tea in their campaigns to highlight human values—family, friendship, love, and workplace bonding.

Tea in Literature
In Bengali literature, tea often appears as a subtle reflection of society. Writers such as Buddhadeb Basu, Sunil Gangopadhyay, and Humayun Ahmed have used moments with tea to portray intimacy, loneliness, or the delicate expressions of love.

Tea in Art and Photography
Tea scenes also occupy a vivid space in Bangladeshi art and photography. Exhibitions at Dhaka’s Bengal Gallery or Art Center have displayed paintings of tea stalls, kettles, and steaming cups. Here, tea is not merely a beverage but a powerful storytelling medium.
The history of tea carries royal legends, colonial exploitation, the rise of railways, the sweat of laborers, tales of advertising, emotions in literature, and expressions in art.
Tea is not just tea—it is tied deeply to our economy, our culture, and our very spirit. The story of tea is, in truth, the story of a society, a nation, and a culture across centuries.